Keep up with grass cutting as it grows, trimming off just a third of its length each session. For grasses that thrive in cooler weather, keep cutting until their growth ceases, aiming for a height of 3 to 4 inches. In the autumn, increase the mower blade height for warm-season grasses and cut as necessary to control weeds.
Strategic autumnal mowing is crucial for a vibrant lawn in the spring. Neglecting to let your grass grow sufficiently before winter may invite rodents like voles and moles. Conversely, trimming it too short can leave the lawn susceptible to winter damage. Essentially, both the timing of mowing and the height of the blades are important for maintaining a healthy lawn during the fall. Whether your lawn enters dormancy or merely slows its growth, these late-fall mowing tactics can contribute to a lush, green lawn come springtime.
In essence, if your lawn is growing, it’s wise to keep it trimmed. Grass can remain robust well into the fall, even after other perennials and annuals have ceased growing or suffered frost damage. So, as you might be inclined to put the mower away after completing seasonal tasks such as composting annuals and harvesting your garden, don’t forget to keep your grass cut as needed.
Relying on the calendar for mowing times can be less effective than observing your lawn’s height. Aim to never cut more than a third of the grass blade, adhering to the “one-third rule.”
For example, if your mower is set at 3 inches, mow when the grass reaches 4.5 inches. This approach aids your lawn’s health by fostering robust roots and reducing thatch accumulation.
Once your grass no longer reaches the ideal mowing height, it has stopped growing. Keep in mind that the optimal mowing height varies with the type of grass. Consult resources for specific advice on your grass variety.
If you experience snowy winters, your grass is probably a cool-season type, like Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, or perennial ryegrass. These varieties thrive during the cooler months of spring and autumn. Although they may brown and go dormant during the summer, they often rebound in the fall with sufficient moisture and cooler temperatures.
As autumn temperatures drop, the soil can remain warm enough to stimulate growth in cool-season grasses. With consistent rain and warm soil, these grasses grow rapidly and require frequent cutting. Continue cutting your cool-season grass until it stops growing, aiming for the final trim to leave the lawn at about 3 to 4 inches, as longer grass in spring can be more susceptible to diseases due to prolonged wetness.
Warm-season grasses, such as bermudagrass, St. Augustine grass, zoysiagrass, and centipede grass, tend to slow their growth in late fall. As they grow less, so should the frequency of your mowing. To aid these grasses in adjusting to cooler growing conditions, raise your mower blade by approximately a half-inch, such as increasing it from 2 inches to 2.5 inches in late fall. This added height aids in better sunlight capture by the leaves.
In the late fall and winter, mowing warm-season grasses tends to be more about weed control than grass cutting. Weeds like burweed, annual bluegrass, and chickweed thrive when these grasses are dormant or growing slowly. Applying pre-emergent herbicides in September or October is ideal for weed prevention, but late-fall and winter mowing can manage any weeds that appear after this period.
You can utilize leaves by either removing them with a leaf vacuum or incorporating them into your lawn. These leaves are rich in nutrients and can enhance soil health, fostering lawn growth. Collect fallen leaves into piles and mow over them on your lawn, breaking them down into small pieces as you pass over them multiple times. The finely chopped leaves will integrate into the turf and decompose quickly.
Ensure leaves are dry when mowing to facilitate easy chopping and avoid clumping. Additionally, slightly raise the mower blade to accommodate thicker leaf layers.
Leave grass clippings on your lawn, regardless of the season, as they decompose quickly to improve soil quality and provide essential nutrients for your turf grass. Think of them as a free source of fertilizer for your lawn.
